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Sabre Tech & Modifications

Street-Rod Cool Twin-Plug Three-Valve Cylinder Heads Five-Speed Constant-Mesh Transmission Offset-Dual-Pin-Crankshaft Shaft Final Drive

Disclaimer: Any person who decides to perform any of the above listed modifications, does so at their own risk.
The Sabre Group does not claim any responsibility for damage to your motorcycle or individual.

Basic Fork Servicing (04/18/2011)
by: Chris (EXCAT)

Here are some pictures from my fork oil change today. It's a pretty simple process. Just in case anyone is wondering like I was before today. I know this has been gone over a lot here, but thought maybe some pictures would help out the timid. All in all, it took me about 2 hours. 30 mins. of which was fighting my new jack and trying to figure out how to pick up the bike with it. I probably even saved money over taking it to the dealership even with the jack I bought.

Start off by removing the windshield, and then breaking the top pinch bolts (6mm allen)

Bike is up on the lift now, with windshield removed.

I then tied off the steering from the bottom of each top triple tree to it's respected side's foot peg. I started with the right side since your caliper is on the left and it wants to go left on it's own. Cinch up to the right slightly past straight, then tie off the left side and it should equal out, and be nice and firm straight. I forgot to get pics of how I tied it off, sorry.

6mm allen to break the pinch bolts

Remove the pretty allen head caps on your riser bolts, and put them somewhere safe. Cover your tank with something soft and thick, as you will be putting your bars on your tank. Mark center of your bars with a dot where your riser cap meets so you can try and get your bars close to where they were when you reinstall them. Then use the 6mm allen to remove the bolts from the riser caps. Remove the top bolts first and then the bottom ones closest to you. This makes it easier to handle the bars and they won't go wild. Carefully set the bars on the tank.

Use a 22mm socket on the hex head fork caps. When loose enough to turn by hand remove the rest of the way by hand, keeping steady pressure on them as there is spring tension on them (don't let them fly away when the last thread on the fork cap releases). Set aside.

Have a good rag handy and slowly pull on the spacer through the rag trying to keep oil from going everywhere, get your telescoping magnet and fetch the washer that sits under the spacer you just pulled out, doing the same (with the rag) as you pull it out, and then the spring. Clean and set aside.

Use a ratchet strap to compress the forks completely.

Use your method of preference to remove the fork oil. I used a MightyVac ($50)

***IMPORTANT***
When you drop the vacuum hose down into the fork you have to make sure that it doesn't catch on the top lip of the fork piston that is attached to the bottom of the lower fork leg. Wiggle the hose around to make sure it goes all the way to the bottom of the piston. Other than removing the forks and turning them upside down that's the only way to be sure of removing all the old fluid. Once you can no longer siphon any more fluid and the pump is sucking air look down in the fork with a flashlight to make sure that the hose did reach the bottom and remove all the old fluid

Since I didn't pull the forks, I put in some fresh oil, moved it around in the forks and sucked that back out to try and flush any contaminates if there were any in the system.

After your happy with your clean tubes, and cleaned your springs up and everything else, get your new fork oil ready. The stock oil is 8wt. but I used 20wt oil, since I'm not happy with the stiffness.

You set the fluid depth at 108mm at full compression. Start by setting up your measuring tool. I bought one specifically for measuring fork oil level for $30. It has mm graduations on the steel tube you put in the fork, but I couldn't get a clear picture of the graduations. I also used my dial caliper to check their graduations, which it was pretty close. 108 millimeters = 4.251 inches, and their mm graduations where off by about 4-6mm. If you're using another method for measuring, just remember that you measure from the top of the fork tube down to the fluid level.

Fill your fork with new oil, just pour it in if you have a steady hand, or a good clean funnel, and when you start to be able to see the fluid, check it. Insert your tube to the desired measurement, and pull back on your syringe. Either add more fluid if you don't pick anything up, or suck until you get air.

Release your forks slowly, and put a piece of paper towel in the top of the forks loosely (THANK YOU JOHN!), and slowly compress and release the forks a few times slowly working out any air. I used my jack to do this, setting the weight of the bike down and picking it back up. Remove your paper towels, and put your springs back in (tight coils to the top) and your washer, and then spacer. You may have to jiggle your spacer a bit to get the washer to set flat, if not, fish it with your magnet and you'll get it.

Put everything back together.

Fork cap - 16 ft.lbs Upper fork pinch bolt - 20 ft.lbs

Before you go ride, grab your front brake and make sure you have compression in your forks and it's not bottoming out.

Disclaimer: Any person who decides to perform any of the above listed modifications, does so at their own risk.
The Sabre Group does not claim any responsibility for damage to your motorcycle or individual.