Sabre Tech & Modifications

Street-Rod Cool Twin-Plug Three-Valve Cylinder Heads Five-Speed Constant-Mesh Transmission Offset-Dual-Pin-Crankshaft Shaft Final Drive

Re-jetting your Sabre

by Mike "Morphd" Montgomery

I will not get into the debate of jet or no jet for your pipes. I will simply give those that wish to jet the information they need to do it well. I took three jet jobs to get it where I think I will like it. Only time will tell. If this last time is not what I am looking for, then I will do it again with different jets. I will tell you that your first time will take you the longest.

Hopefully with these pictures and instructions, you can get the first job done in about 3 hours or less. It usually takes me about 1.5 hours or so after three times of doing it.

Step 1:

Remove the seat.

I have a Mustang seat so I only have to remove this one nut holding the rear of the seat down. It is a 10mm. If you have the stock seat you will have two additional bolts to remove, one of each side of the passenger seat, they are 12mm.

Lift the rear of the seat up while clearing your sissy bar (if you have one), then slide the tongue out of the slot under the gas tank in front.

Step 2:

Remove the gas tank.

There are two bolts holding your tank on. One is in the back and is a 12mm. Remove it and set it aside.

The other one is in the front of the tank it is an 8mm. Remove it and set it next to the first one.

Remove the tank vent hose on the right side of the bike.

Turn the gas valve to the off position and remove the gas feed line.

Pull the tank up with both hands, carefully (make sure your handlebars are set straight).

Step 3:

Remove the plastic overflow canister.

There are two hoses on this canister. Both must be removed and pushed out of the way.

Remove the bolt holding the canister to make it easier to take off the second hose.

Remove the air inlet boot.

This boot goes from the Air inlet from the air box under the seat to the tops of the carbs, they are held on by a metal band with a screw providing the tension. There are three of them to loosen. This is the right side.

The left side is hard to see because of the water hose, and cables, but you can see the screwdriver coming in form the top and feel your way to the screw. Or you can sit down on the ground beside it and see the screw better.

This is the last one on the main boot.

Once loosened it will pop right out. It may require a little wiggling. A tip to putting this back on is to align the main section first. There is a lib on the bottom that you will want to place first on the outside of the metal air tunnel in the bikeís frame. Then put the other two back on the top of the carbs. A little spray silicone can help them go on easier.

Step 5:

Remove Sub Air Filter Cleaner.

This is a little black box tucked in front of the carbs. It has two hoses, one for each carb. Disconnect the hoses at the carb and remove the box.

This side is a little tricky, but comes out pretty easily.

Here is the Sub Air Cleaner removed.

Step 6:

Remove the gas supply hoses from the carbs, one on each side. There is also a vent hose that connects in-between the carbs on a "T" line.


You have to look real close but you can see the needle nose on the gas supply hose for the rear carb.

Remove the gas supply hose for the front carb.

And finally the vacuum hose in the middle on the "T" line.

Step 7:

Remove the throttle push/pull cables and drum. Remove the Chock SV valves.

To make clearance, pull the rear spark plug wire off and unclip the clutch cable from the clip on the side of the rear head. You will see it when you look.

Unscrew the throttle cable clip housing (two screws).

Loosen the cable adjusting nuts and remove the cables from the housing.

Turn the handlebars to full lock left position to give slack in the throttle pull cable and remove the cable from the drum. Rotate the drum (it only goes one way) to give slack for the push cable removal and remove the cable. Set aside the screws and cable housing.

Remove the SV (Choke) valves, this is a tedious part, but if you pull the rubber boot back on the cable it will make it go much smoother. I use needle nose pliers to get the plastic nut loose on the side of the carb then loosen the rest of the way with my fingers.

Let the cable move away naturally and do not let the spring fall off of the assembly.

Remove the spark plug clip from the carb and push away the spark plug wire.

Remove the other SV (Choke) valve the same as you did the other side.

Step 8:

Carb removal.

There are two more rubber boots that secure the carbs onto the heads. Loosen the screws that hold the boots onto the carbs just like you did with the air inlet boot.

There is one on each side.

Carefully unseat the carbs from the boots and rotate the assembly forward then turn it clockwise while lifting the backend out of the frame. NOTE: California Sabres will need to remove a few more vacuum lines. You will need to remember where these vacuum lines go for reassembly.

Like so.

Now you have tore the heart out of your beast. Have a beer.

Step 9:

Changing out the jets and Main Jet Needles.

First thing, drain the fuel bowls using the fuel bowl drain screw, there is one on each carb. Very little will come out. (you may skip this if you ran your bike until it used up all the gas in the bowl).

I recommend using a table with a nice clean cloth covering it. Here I am showing the needle and its relation to the carb. I have pushed the piston up to reveal the needle.

I started with the main jets located in the fuel bowl, but it does not matter which one you do first. Remove the four screws from the fuel bowl cover. You may need to use a pair of sturdy piers to grip the screw heads and break them loose. Usually the screws are in tight enough to cause the screwdriver to strip the heads.

Remove the fuel bowl cover and be very careful not to touch the floats (those are the white plastic things).

Remove the main jet using a good regular screwdriver; it is located in the middle of the three brass orifices. The long skinny one with a slotted head is the slow jet. We do not want to change that one; the other one is what we want. You may have to use a wrench as a backer to keep the whole assembly from rotating where the main jet goes in. Once you remove it, replace it with a new one of your choosing. (I am currently using a Dynojet 165 front and 170 rear).

Button the fuel bowl cover back on. Make sure the screws feel tight but not over tight.

On to the diaphragm and the main jet. Remove four screws (using the pliers to break them if needed).

Apply pressure to the cover or else your cover will pop off like a jack in the box.

This is what the piston looks like when you pull it out.

Look inside and you see a little plastic keeper. Turn that counter-clockwise and it will release with a spring under it. This is how you get the main jet needle out.

Once you replace the needle or reset it, put the plastic keeper back in and turn clockwise ľ turn. Make sure the little spring was still on it when you put it in. There is also a washer that the needle goes though before the keeper. Donít forget that. Now you are ready to put the piston back in. The rubber diaphragm has to go on one way. There is a little hole on one of the corners that must line up with a corresponding hole on the carb body. Once you have it in correctly, use you other hand to raise the piston. This will cause the rubber diaphragm to seat into the grooves better. Run your finder around the rubber edge making sure to push it into the grooves evenly. Replace the spring and cover, keeping the piston raised until the cover is on enough to hold the rubber diaphragm in place.

You have to do this twice, once for each carb, just like the jets. When you are done with the jets and needles, you are ready to reassemble your bike and replace everything back in reverse order of the way we took it off. Refer to the prior pictures if you need help in remembering the order and location of hoses.

Rotate the carbs back in to position, make sure you get a positive seat on the rubber boots, tighten up the screws. Replace the hoses, and the cables. Take your time here and make sure not to get the push pull cables mixed up (it is easier than you think to do). I find it helps to turn the front wheel to full lock left when doing the cables and full lock right when replacing the Choke. Handle the chock valve with care, and make sure the rubber boot on the valve is pushed back revealing the copper elbow, this will make re-installing it easier. Take your time.

Once everything is back on the bike, open the gas valve, insert key, turn on ignition, and push the starter for a few minuets and the bike will fire. If a minuet goes by and the bike did not fire, let off and try again. You may need to add choke, but it will fire if everything is on correctly. Take a test ride down the street to make sure everything is ok. Check for leaks, etc.

Beer time!!

Disclaimer: Any person who decides to perform any of the above listed modifications, does so at their own risk.
The Sabre Group does not claim any responsibility for damage to your motorcycle or individual.