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Sabre Tech & Modifications

Street-Rod Cool Twin-Plug Three-Valve Cylinder Heads Five-Speed Constant-Mesh Transmission Offset-Dual-Pin-Crankshaft Shaft Final Drive

Lightning Performance Products Forward Controls

(Most Everything They Donít Tell You)

By "FOGGYDAVE"

Brake Side

Removal

Remove Stock Bolts That Mount Brake Assembly to Frame- This is easy enough but pay attention to the Brake Pedal return spring and bushing. It is under pressure (not too much) and you will have to exert the same pressure to put it back.

Remove Stock Brake pivot linkage- This is a little tricky after you remove the retaining clip. The brake actuator rod has a U shaped stamping that is held in place by a nut and a rolled pin. The rolled pin is really really small and difficult to drive out. I used a tiny allen wrench. The U bracket will then screw off (with difficulty) using a crescent wrench to grip it or a screwdriver through the holes. If you arenít worried about saving it vice grips would work better. You can use the locking nut to stabilize the rod while you do this.

Installation

Install New Plate

This is easy but start all the bolts before tightening them.
The directions supplied reversed the bolts so you have to use the long one with the bushing on the bottom and the short one on the top.

Install the new brake pivot linkage (brake rod extension) to the existing brake rod. Adjust it to where you think its close. Youíll have to adjust it again after the pedal assembly is put back.

Install brake assembly to new plate

This gets a little tricky. With the new bolts supplied with the kit, start the long bottom bolt through the footrest base, into the new bracket, through the brake pedal return spring and bushing (being careful not to lose the o-rings on the bushing). This is where the tension on the return spring comes in. If you rotate the whole assembly toward the front of the bike this is much easier. Put on the washer and the lock nut but donít tighten too much. Then rotate the assembly back and install the top (short) bolt. Be sure you put the washer next to the lock nut or the bushing will bind up. Be sure the brake pedal return spring stays in the hole provided in the new plate. It will be very close and probably touch the footrest base.

Attach Brake Rod Extension to brake pedal

They left this part out! One side of the extension is threaded to take the bolt supplied. If you tighten it enough to hold the bolt in place it binds the brake pedal and it wonít return fully. I threaded a longer bolt completely through without tightening it too much and used double nuts to lock it.

Shifter Side

Remove Shifter Rod

This is a little tricky also-the threads are opposite on each end. Loosen the nuts and it will unscrew from both ends at once.
 

Remove shifter assembly and footpeg

Pretty straight forward.
 

Mount new plate with stock bolts

Ditto

Install new shifter rod -to transmission linkage first. On my kit the nuts would not thread on the new shifter rod so there are no locking nuts. (Remember the left hand threads!) Mount the shifter to the other end of the rod. Be sure you do enough turns in each end for it to be secure. The more turns you use, the lower your shifter peg will be in relation to the pedal.

Mount footrest using new bolts supplied.

Go back and check for tightness and function.

YOU ARE DONE!

I hope this helps a little. It took me about an hour with the mistakes so it really isnít too bad. It is probably a good idea to do this out of earshot of young children and those sensitive to profanity. If you donít scrape your knuckles at least once youíre not trying hard enough. Good Luck!

Editors Note: Dennis Kirk Catalog part # 49-9282, price $110 Thanks Dave (BLUEBIKE)

 

Disclaimer: Any person who decides to perform any of the above listed modifications, does so at their own risk.
The Sabre Group does not claim any responsibility for damage to your motorcycle or individual.