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Sabre Tech & Modifications

Street-Rod Cool Twin-Plug Three-Valve Cylinder Heads Five-Speed Constant-Mesh Transmission Offset-Dual-Pin-Crankshaft Shaft Final Drive

Progressive Suspension – 412 Heavy Duty Shocks

by Roger "RoRo" Coelho

What you need:
  • Socket Wrench (10mm, 12mm, 14mm)
  • Phillips Head Screwdriver or Large Allen Wrench
  • Crowbar or Hammer
  • Goo-Off and a rag (to remove the cartoony sticker)

I do not know why I am writing up these directions. The process is real easy. I did this with out using my lift and at all times I thought the shocks were going to pop or snap off. This was not the case. Read below for an easy way to install new shocks.

Step One: Preparation.

Remove your seat. 10mm Bolt on the rear fender and if you have the stock seat, there are two more bolts on the side of the seat. Also remove saddlebags if you have them.

You than want to make sure that your left-side shock is at the highest tension (5). This will make it easier to work on the right-side. Optional: Lower the right-side shock to 1 if worried (I was), but I do not think it is necessary.

Step Two: Right-Side Shock

This one is the easy one. With the 14mm Socket wrench, first remove the top bolt on the shock, and than remove the bottom bolt. The shock will slightly pop when the bottom bolt is finally removed, but nothing dramatic. Lift the shock out of the bottom housing and slide off the top post.

Do the reverse to put replace the new shock (sticker end up), but use the smallest diameter/ thickest black spacer (provided with the shocks) for the bottom bolt of the shock. You will be able to lift and lower the bike with one hand to line up the bottom bolt hole. Replace bolts. See pic (notice how much lower the bike is now :)).



If you want to remove the sticker, do it now. Peel sticker and use a rag with Goo-Off (or anything else you have that will work) to remove the adhesive.

Step Three: Left-Side Shock

This one is a bit more difficult because of the bottom bolt. Tighten the right-side shock to highest setting (5) and loosen the left side to the lowest tension (1). Remove the top bolt (14mm). Loosen the bottom bolt (12mm). This bolt will not thread out fully, hense the difficult part. You will have to pry the top end of the shock off first (I used a hammer’s claw, but a crow bar will work better). Be gentle doing this. Once the top is removed, work the shock around so the bolt on the bottom can be removed.

Replace the new shock using the largest diameter/thinnest black spacer on the bottom this time. You will need to work this side with a screwdriver or a thick alan wrench to line up the bottom bolt hole. I had to lie on the floor to look down the hole and lift my bike using my knee on the rear fender to make sure everything was lining up (it is a tight fit). Tighten all bolts (if you wish, see torque values on this site for exact torque values).

Remove sticker and clean. Tighten shock cam to 5 or what ever value you will be riding with (I like them stiff).

Step Four: Clean up and Ride

Replace saddlebags and seat. Clean up. Ride!!!

Editors Note: This is always the best step!

Disclaimer: Any person who decides to perform any of the above listed modifications, does so at their own risk.
The Sabre Group does not claim any responsibility for damage to your motorcycle or individual.