Honda Shadow Sabre
Stator Replacement (August 18, 2008)
by: Phil Haseltine - Sabretooth
The following information is my experience for replacing the
stator in my 2004 Honda Sabre VT1100C2. This can be used for other bikes
Iím sure, but this is my procedure and the issues that I encountered.
Hopefully, this will make it easier for the next person.
First, I donít think batteries just up and die. So as
I was riding I was about 50 miles from home and pulled off the
interstate. Came to a stop and blamoÖ the bike dies. Tried to start
and nothingÖ I mean nothing. Pushed to the side and checked my LED
voltage monitor. It was RED, less than 10.5V. No way will the bike
start. Got jumped and to a Honda dealer, bought a battery, stuck it in,
got home and the bike would just barley start again.
Now I have work to do since the new battery did not
charge. Two things, voltage regulator/rectifier or stator, these are the
only two items for this model/type of motorcycle.
Using a digital voltmeter, I connected to the battery,
started the bike and it read 11.3Ö 11.2Ö 11.1Ö going down. Revved the
throttle and it still went down. I knew I needed at least 13 or more
volts at this time. Doing my homework, yes, at 4-5K rpm the voltage
should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts. With my Sabre, the voltage always went
down. I charged the new battery to full and did my test again, same
outcome. Definitely, the battery was not charging.
Simple things first, bought a voltage regulator/rectifier
from my dealer ($48), put it and nothing, same problem. Only part left is
Here is a great article on how to troubleshoot problems like
this. I found this after I fixed my problem.
Read this article first before attempting this work, it is
So, letís get started. I will be making comments
throughout this article just to keep things interesting.
- 8, 9, 10, 12, 17mm socket
- Phillips head screwdriver
- Rubber mallet/hammer
Parts Needed: Just order these period you WILL need
- 11395-MAH-000 Gasket, L (Main seal)
- 22862-MAH-003 Gasket (Clutch
- 91204-425-003 Oil
- 11365-MM8-P00 Gasket
- ESG080 Stator from http://www.electrosport.com/products/product-detail-418.php
higher performance with 20% more output
- Acetone for cleaning.
I also had some high temperature RTV silicone sealant that I
did use in small quantities.
Note: I will be using the same pictures more than
OK, letís get started!
- Drain the oil, period. You will thank me later.
- Remove the seat.
- Remove the battery.
- Locate the connector that has three yellow wires.
Here they are at the top. This is the connection from the stator to
the voltage regulator/rectifier. This is the main one you will be
replacing. Unplug it for now. The other two are from the
- Get ready to remove the right side cover from the left
- This is tricky. There are TWO clips behind the cover
that must be removed. Here is a picture of the one on the
left. Reach behind the cover and rotate them both up. The
other one is to the right of the clutch cable, feel behind the cover and
flip it up also. Remove BOTH clips. Remove the nut at the
bottom of this cover.
- Unbolt the shifter assembly and fold it up to the
left. Notice that it has two dimples for alignment. Mark these
better with a permanent marker. Behind here you will see an oil seal
that will be destroyed during the procedure. Donít worry, you have a
8.† After the right cover is removed you will see another
cover. This is part of the starter motor/gears. Number each one of
these bolts on the head and cover because they are the same size but different
lengths. I am pointing to the actual stator wires coming out of the crankcase
- Remove the cable from the clutch assembly. Remove
the three bolts that hold this on. Oil may start to come out, donít
worry, you drained it remember?
- See that rod in the middle? Pull it straight out and
put it aside. Remember the orientation. See that bolt with the
rubber grommet? Remove it too.
- Here it the clutch assembly removed. You will be
replacing this gasket.
- This next picture shows the starter cover removed.
Donít worry the gears inside are free and can be put back easily.
Notice the bolt I am pointing too. You need to REMEMBER this bolt
to put it back together. Also notice the metal dowel pins for
alignment. Do not lose these. Also notice the gasket
material. This will need to be completely cleaned.
- At this time you may remove all the bolts around the left
side of the crankcase cover. These are all the same length (sorry,
- Here comes the fun part. Time to remove the
crankcase cover. The problem I had here was at the bottom right of
the crankcase, there is a slight flange that got stuck on the water
- To fix this issue, remove this bolt here.
- Now what I did was to use a wood clamp to pull this water
pipe to the right about ľĒ so the crankcase cover would come off.
- Once this pipe is pulled to the right, now is the time to
remove the crankcase cover. You MUST use a rubber mallet/hammer and
tap all around the cover until you hear the pitch change. Once you
hear this, it has broken the gasket seal. Now you must try to wiggle
the cover back and forth to get it over the shifter at the bottom.
There are also two metal dowel pins used for alignment that must be
cleared by about a ľĒ before you and move it back and forth. Take
your time, it will come off.
- Once the cover is off, hold it carefully and cut the three
yellow wires to the stator. Your new stator will have new
connectors. Here is a picture of the old stator and the internal
clamp for the wires. Notice the gasket material, this will need to
be completely removed and cleaned.
There are two rubber grommets that hold the wires.
One can be removed and used again, the other must be CAREFULLY cut and the three wires removed because you will need to use both of these again. UPDATE: Electrosport has started putting the rubber grommets on the cable so you don't need to cut the plug off or split the old grommet to reuse. Get some hi temp RTV for sealing the grommet on the stator AND inspect the grommet under the stator housing, seal this grommet with hi temp RTV sealent if needed.
- Now you may remove the three bolts and the old stator and
replace it with the new one. Make sure it mounts correctly and fit
the grommets back the way the old ones where. Just leave the new
wires hanging without the connector. You will splice and add the
connector after you snake the wire assembly back up under the seat.
- Remove the oil seal by the shifter hole. This will
be difficult and you will destroy it, but you have a new one.
- Here is a picture of the crankcase cover with the stator
removed. Notice the notch where the strain relief of the stator is
supposed to go.
- UPDATE: Steps 23 - 25 no longer needed. Electrosport Stator now fits just like stock stator.
Here it the problem that I had with my new stator. The old stator had three holes and the strain relief next to one of them.
The new stator (blue) had the holes incorrect causing the
strain relief NOT to fit into the notch above because it was too far away.
I solved this problem by removing the strain relief all
together and not use it. The crankcase internal mounting was plenty
to hold this in place. I called the company and they are going to
fix this, so this should not be an issue.
- Time to get the gaskets ready! Clean ALL surfaces
and remove the old gasket material from EVERYWHERE! You want a
perfect seal and no oil leaks. Take your time. When all is
removed, use acetone to clean all surfaces of everything.
- Install the new stator and tighten the bolts. Route
the wires up and clamp them with the internal clamp. I would suggest
some sort of thread lock but I use clear nail polish.
- Now you need to mount the main crankcase gasket. I
used a small amount of RTV Silone gasket seal just to make sure the gasket
stays put on the engine, not the crankcase cover. I also used this
on the rubber grommets for the wires.
- Time to mount the crankcase cover with the new
stator. Remember to move the water pipe to the right as far as
- Mount the crankcase cover making sure the wires for the
new stator are positioned correctly. Push carefully and watch the
metal dowel pins for alignment. It should pop in perfectly!
Watch the gasket!
- Put in the bolts around the left side do not
tighten! Make sure you do not forget this bolt! Tighten this
- Now you may tighten these bolts, especially the bolt that
is inside the starter cover.
- Mount the starter cover (with gears inside) with NEW
gasket. This has metal dowel pins also. These bolts are each
of different lengths thatís why I wanted you to number them. Do not
- Put the long rod into the clutch assembly.
- Mount the clutch assembly with NEW rubber gasket.
Watch this as this has a metal dowel pin that a bolt goes through.
- Once you have verified that you have no left over bolts,
now you may start to tighten everything. I donít have a torque
wrench so I use the two finger tight method. Works perfect.
- Once all these bolts are tightened, you must now insert
the NEW oil seal into the shifter assembly located behind my finger here.
- It should push straight in and then I used a piece of wood
to tap it in all around so it seats flush.
- UPDATE: Step 39 no longer needed. Electrosport Stator now fits just like stock stator.
Here it the problem that I had with my new stator.
Route the wire assembly up through the inside of the Sabre
and bring out the three yellow wires. Connect and SOLDER these to
the new female spade lugs and install into the plastic connector. It
does not matter which wire goes where. Plug it in.
- Put oil back in the bike! This is
- Install the battery.
- Connect your digital voltmeter to the battery terminals
and turn it on.
- Time to kick the tires and light the fires! Start
the bike up!
- Your voltmeter should start to read 12.5 volts or
more! Over 13.5 volts and you should see it go UP! Crank the
throttle and the display, it should only go up and stay put!
- If you see this, you have succeeded! Turn off the
- Install the shifter.
- Hook up the clutch cable.
- Install the right side cover, watch those clips!
Install the seat.
- Take her for a short test drive and come back and check
for any oil leaks.
- Let her sit overnight with white paper towels under to
make sure no oil leaks, take her out the next day for a longer trip and
check for oil leaks again.
Well, that should do it. Total time for me (includes
beer breaks) about 10 hours, not rushing at all. You donít want to rush
Parts were about $190 total.
Hope this helps.
Phil Haseltine - Sabretooth